8 Comments
User's avatar
Ben Mondy's avatar

Yes I agree Eloy- its a complicated issue. Surfing’s unwritten rules make it hard - there’s a lot of grey area for human kind to get involved and survival of the fittest brings out the worst in some people.

Hopefully more women in the line-up will help. And younger generation who won’t tolerate bullying etc. Surf could learn from the Skating and climbing communities, though the scarcity and overcrowding is less of an issue.

Expand full comment
Eloy Padilla's avatar

Nice content… but why localism exists on first place?

I found myself living more an alpine life than surfing life, despite I grew up in a very nice surf spot of south Spain, surfing, now I surf whenever I travel… I live now in the alps and close to dolomites in Italy and I found relief in the climbing community, a lot in common with surfing communities except localism, which does not exists…

My thesis, those locals are bad energy, bad vibes that need to be shown in the water, where they feel bigger than perhaps on land…

it should be forbidden and creating bad reputation in the same way someone yells on you in the car while driving…people should not be afraid of those, indeed, the gang supporting and imitating them are fucking scared, that is why the join them instead of ignore them…

Is a big pity to see localism breaking the good vibes in the water. Those people that most probably need therapy, are making surfing more sad, they do not understand the true meaning of surfing.

I do believe surfing needs regulation but it does not need to be enforced with violence.

I do believe there is enough for everyone to share despite small windows to surf…

People surfing in a red mind does not get what it gets to surf in a blue mind.

Expand full comment
The Duck Dive's avatar

Nice one mate, top notch topic & perfectly covered. Adding on to your Boucau stories, did you see Biarritz Surf Gang ? It's a must watch on the topic : https://vimeo.com/ondemand/biarritzsurfgangdoc

Expand full comment
Ben Mondy's avatar

Cheers bud, I hadn't watched re Biarritz Surf Gang, wil tee it up for sure!

Expand full comment
Tony Butt's avatar

Thanks Ben. A massive subject that has been and will be debated endlessly. I would say, instead of Mundaka, put Rodiles. Mundaka suffers more from simple crowd stress than localism, whereas Rodiles is on a completely different level. Also, I would recently add Madeira.

Expand full comment
Ben Mondy's avatar

Yes, true Tony. I've been welcomed many times in Mundaka, and that despite being one of 60 surfers come in for a swell. Rodiles defo should be on the list. I was unaware the Maderians are gnarly too?

Expand full comment
Dan bateman's avatar

As a non-surfer..isn’t all about sharing? This seems to be the opposite of the generalised laid back surfing attitude. I can understand if a novice surfer on a massive foam surf board (me) gets in the way and ruins the wave for the truly great surfers. But if everyone is equal? After all they don’t actually own the water and Point Break was a story not a documentary!

Expand full comment
Ben Mondy's avatar

Good, in theory Dan. But the rules are needed, otherwise it would be carnage. And they are enforced by a collective, not an umpire or ref (like in sport), or police (road), so its gets lumpy. Violence isn't the answer, and usually always done by cnuts, but its always been there. Oh, and whatya mean Point Break wasn't a documentary????

Expand full comment